Get Exclusive Access To Indian Horse Racing Markets With Racebets India – Even from the narrow window of the jet, these pearly beaches and crystal clear waters, which seem to appear out of nowhere in the Indian Ocean, look like they were taken from a postcard. The grassy sugarcane fields and green mountains, rising brightly against the sharp blue sky, will also dazzle.
South of the equator and east of Madagascar, Mauritius is surrounded by chalk beaches and reefs freckled with exotic fish, earning a reputation as a quintessential island getaway. Advertisements and brochures will convey how this is a family destination with water sports and waterfalls. And they wouldn’t be wrong. But like so many tropical islands, it’s not all coconut palms and daiquiris. Mauritius is much more robust than its reputation suggests.
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The island’s complex history – it has been colonized three times, by the Dutch, the British and the French – and its particular geography have resulted in a rich mix of cultures (Hindu, Muslim, Christian, French, Creole and Chinese), which often overlooked by visitors. Evidence of the island’s diversity will not be found behind the high walls of beach resorts, but in the streets and pulsating markets of Port Louis, where the mix of cultures is undeniable. Even more so at the Champ de Mars, remarkably the second oldest racecourse in the world (behind Chester in the UK), which attracts foreigners and locals alike, regardless of background. “It unites [the island], regardless of your social status,” says Soun Gujadhur, a trainer whose family owns the famous Gujadhur stable – the island’s oldest – and has been involved in horse racing in Mauritius for more than 100 years.
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The electric atmosphere at the Champ de Mars in the capital city of Port Louis is what really draws the crowds. It’s hard not to get excited about the action at a stadium where the pitch is just a stone’s throw from the stands. Here the horses pass the spectators at lightning speed, and the spectators, hanging over the rails, with betting cards in their hands, are almost sprinkled with dirt. When the horses cross the finish line, the crowd erupts and creates the kind of cheers you’d expect to hear at a football game. “From a rider’s point of view, it’s amazing how close you are,” says Mark Neisius, a former rider and winner of the Maiden Cup, Mauritius’ most prestigious race. “It’s unique how fanatical the crowd is.”
Mauritius is crazy about horse racing. “I’ve ridden in eight countries around the world and I’ve never felt such passion,” says Derreck David, a rider who moved from South Africa to Mauritius nine years ago to compete. It is considered the national sport of Mauritius. But it’s not just the locals who participate. Top matches have attracted royals including Britain’s Princess Anne and Sarah, Duchess of York and former Arsenal footballer Robert Pires, as well as foreign leaders from across Africa and the Middle East. The stadium, which saw its first match in 1812 and was the focus of independence celebrations in 1968, often hosts matches when dignitaries visit the island. Not only is a trip to the track a grand affair that provides a window into Mauritian culture, but the setting is also ridiculously picturesque. Surrounded by green mountains and in the shadow of Le Pouce, the island’s signature thumb-shaped peak, the Champ de Mars is worth a visit in itself.
Anyone can arrive at the stadium in a t-shirt and sandals, but that doesn’t mean the spectators don’t dress up the place. In the boxes there is no shortage of men in tailoring, women in dresses and show hats. “It is compulsory to wear a jacket and tie in the Parade Ring and in the members’ area,” says Benoît Halbwachs, secretary of the Mauritius Turf Club, the non-profit private organization that orchestrates the races. Riding a horse in the ring is considered a highly prestigious affair and guests are expected to dress accordingly.
“This is one of the few racecourses where you come onto the track when your horse has won and you lead him back to the paddock. It is indeed bragging,” says Neisius. “For the owners, it’s a bright thing.”
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More often than not, these owners come from the most famous stables in Mauritius, Gujadhur and Rousset stables, run by trainer Gilbert Rousset. “If you ride for Gujadhur or Rousset stables, you ride for the best,” says David, the jockey, adding that they invest in the best horses in the area (most imported from South Africa). While the Gujadhur family has most of their horse stock at Rousset Stables, the island’s more affluent residents are regular companions. “Everyone wants to be involved, even if they own 5 percent of a horse,” says David. The perks: instant access to the riders, who are considered local celebrities and all the rider gossip. (Foreign horse owners tend not to compete because of the lower stakes – a purse of Mauritian rupees pales in comparison to winning US dollars.)
Members of the Gujadhur family ride their horse Enaad. One of the island’s most prominent equestrian tribes, the Gujadhurs have been involved in racing for over a century. Yahya Nazrou
The tourists who attend usually prefer the real crowd, the four classics: the Duchess of York Cup, the Barbe Cup, the Maiden Cup and the Duke of York Cup. There is also the International Jockeys’ Weekend, which attracts competitors from all over the world and concludes the season in December. But it’s the average games on Saturday that are a real testament to how deep the love for the sport runs here. And it is on these days that foreigners can witness the multiculturalism of Mauritius at its most authentic. “Even these [smaller] events attract the entire population of the island,” says Halbwachs. “It represents a microcosm of Mauritian society.”
From March to December, the Champ de Mars attracts between 20,000 and 75,000 spectators on each of its approximately 40 race days. The track serves as the town’s unofficial square. “It is an open public space,” says Khalid Rawat, former deputy general manager of the Turf Club. “So when a horse race was held in Mauritius, people could always access the race track and even bring their children along.”
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For many Mauritians, a day at the races is a traditional family affair. “People became racegoers from one generation to the next,” says Rawat, who grew up going to the Champ de Mars with his father. The Gujadhur family has passed the tradition down through generations to become one of the most elite equestrian families in the country. Gujadhur’s grandfather bought his first horse in 1904. Today, Gujadhur works with his two sons at the breed’s eponymous stable, known for its blue silks seen on many winning riders. It’s through tradition and family that “everyone catches the bug,” says Rawat.
Even tourists staying at some of the island’s most indulgent beach hotels, including the One&Only Le Saint Géran, are encouraged to brave the Champ de Mars. One&Only can arrange for guests to spend a lavish day in a VIP box at the finish line, with plenty of champagne and canapés and extras such as a photographer to capture the festivities or special access to the track and jockeys. Even after the race is over and the horses are back in their stalls, the champagne pops and parties at the Banana Bar or along the Grand Baie strip often go on late into the night.
View of the Champ de Mars, the oldest race track in the southern hemisphere, surrounded by mountains. Yahya Nazrou
A day at the races offers just one opening into the culture of Mauritius, beyond the quiet beach resorts. Savvy travelers ditch poolside piña coladas for a stroll to Port Louis, where vendors spill out of bustling markets selling spices, mangoes, baskets and more. And then to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens, where water lilies the size of wine barrels float in inky pools, shaded by baobab trees and mahogany trees. There are mountains to hike in the Black River Gorges National Park and a wealth of different cuisine and street food to sample, from dal puri, rice frita (fried rice) and peeled pimento pineapples sold in markets to perfect Parisian croissants at patisseries like Le Fournil in Grand Baie. There’s also no shortage of fresh seafood, with restaurants turning octopus into local curry recipes and fresh tuna served on the beach at Indigo at the Constance Belle Mare Plage hotel.
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It’s easy to see why travelers are drawn to the island by the country’s beaches and spend their holidays rolling from the sand to the pool. But if that’s all you want, there are many other tropical paradises that are much easier to get to. If you’re flying in the middle of the Indian Ocean, it counts. The real Mauritius is too fascinating to ignore, horses and all.
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